The ticket to feeling like you’re eating something new (when you’re definitely not) is a swoosh of garlicky hummus or big spoonful of pesto. Zhoug is a spiced and tangy condiment from Yemen that's often served with shawarma as a counterpart to the other rich and fatty fillings. To make the shakshuka, you add a few tablespoons of the red zhoug to a base of oven-dried bell peppers and onions, to thicken it and provide the lion’s share of the flavor. I love a sauce sub-recipe because you inevitably get leftovers to play with, a kind of secret future meal plan embedded within the thing you’re making for right now. Unlike other titles in the category that are better suited for the coffee table than the kitchen, Bavel is for real life use, and the red zhoug, part of the robust “Sauces” section, is no exception.
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