Il Mulino (DC)
Il Mulino
1100 Vermont Ave. NW
Washington, DC 20005
(202) 293-1001
Mon.-Thurs. 12:00pm-2:30pm, 5:00pm-10:30pm
Fri. 12:00pm-2:30pm, 5:00pm-11:00pm
Sat. 5:00pm-11:00pm
Sun. 5:00pm-10:30pm
Cuisine: Italian
$$$$ -- the kind without prices specified on the menu
Il Mulino is the Italian newcomer to the expense account-only dining scene. The D.C. branch of this New York establishment offers above-average renditions of classic southern Italian fare, but what makes it memorable are the service and the swag.
As the maitre d’ escorted us through the lively main dining room to a more secluded table, a mountain of spicy fried zucchini and a plate of pepperoncini awaited. As my date and I scooped up the final bits, one waiter heaped bruschetta and mussels onto our plates as another placed a basket of freshly baked focaccia between us. While we were gorging ourselves on the freebies, yet another waiter approached the table, this time with ample carvings from a large cylinder of Parmesan cheese he was wheeling.
All of these samples were first-class. I would not have been surprised to learn that the tomatoes in the bruschetta had been flown in that morning.
Stuffed with amuse-bouche, we were asked by our headwaiter if we were ready to see the menu. We agreed, wondering how we could stomach any additional food. From the fairly no-frills offering, I selected the caprese salad, papparadella with Italian sausage, and tiramisu.
After so many helpings of scrumptious appetizers, the courses were a bit of a letdown. The caprese salad had delicious ingredients but was pretty basic. The Italian sausage was mouth-watering, but the pasta and sauce were bland. The tiramisu was sweet but overly soft. Unquestionably, all were above average, but their price tags left us expecting more.
All the same, Il Mulino’s deal-sealer is the service. My optimistic water glass was never less than half full. I had barely finished the focaccia before Waiter #5 approached with a breadcrumb comb. While trying to pilfer a bite of my date’s tasty rigatoni bolognese, a dollop of meat landed on the tablecloth. Within five minutes, Waiter #6 was on the scene with a fresh one.
The final luxury was delivered in the form of a complimentary shot of limoncello. All I would have needed to feel more like royalty was a Pacific Islander waving a palm fan and a woman to feed me olives, one by one. The menu may be unimaginative, and the food the slightest bit disappointing by comparison, but Il Mulino’s waitstaff and freebies are second to none, deserving of a special-occasion splurge.
Comments
By Pete Rudegeair
Pete is a financial journalist in Washington, D.C. He hails from Pennsylvania and recently graduated from UPenn. In addition to being an obsessed surveyor of the blogosphere, Peter is a diehard Philadelphia Eagles fan, an aspiring Jeopardy champion, and a card-carrying member of the Clean Plate Club.
About The Humble Gourmand
The Humble Gourmand is published the first Friday of each month, edited by Alison L. McConnell, a Washington, D.C.-based journalist and writer. It is designed to offer straightforward lessons and advice to aspiring cooks, oenophiles, and all other eaters and drinkers.
The Humble Gourmand encourages users to comment on any and all of its features, but reserves the right to remove any material deemed inappropriate.
No one has posted any comments yet. Perhaps you'd like to be the first?
Post yours
You're not logged in. Would you like to register or log in?.