The Humble Gourmand

You don’t come to Brophy Bros. for the steak. The reason we’re waiting in an hourlong line on a Friday evening is the same as the dozens of people behind and in front of us: We’re here for the seafood.

When we planned our weekend getaway to Santa Barbara, every veteran of this charming seaside escape recommended Brophy Bros. It’s right on the harbor, overlooking yachts and fishing boats alike. Mountains rise up in the distance and a cool fog rolls in as the sun sets.

The cool spring weather doesn’t deter the flocks of people – tourists and locals both – from clamoring for a table. We came prepared for the wait, so we exchanged our car keys for a beeper (they don’t mess around here) and headed for the bar.

The beer was cold and affordable at a very reasonable $4.50 each. Microbrews like Anchor Steam, Fat Tire, and Firestone DBA were on tap alongside staples like Stella Artois and all of Milwaukee’s finest.

A couple of rounds made the wait pass quickly and soon enough we were seated out on the deck with one of the best views in the house.

We each started out with an oyster shooter ($2.75 each), a shotglass stuffed with a meaty mollusk, spicy cocktail sauce, romano cheese, and a sprinkle of parsley. We slurped those down, savoring the peppery aftertaste.

The garlic baked clams ($10.25) arrived soon after and were the delight of the meal. We might have asked for a second half-dozen if we hadn’t already placed our entrée orders. Piping hot with truth in garlicky advertising, the clams are served on the half shell, covered with a blanket of breadcrumbs and butter. We found them even better with a little bit of lemon pulp on top.

All entrées come with the option of a salad or a cup of clam chowder. Always get the clam chowder. This cannot be stressed enough. The iceberg lettuce salad came drowned in a mild ranch dressing with a few sad cherry tomatoes and cucumbers. It was the only sour note of the whole meal.

The chowder, on the other hand, had an ideal consistency: not too thick, not too thin, and generous with the clams. Chowder aficionados – especially from back East – will have to give it a go.

The entrées arrived and we had to make room for more. The seafood pasta ($18.95) was a monolith of wide fettuccine, scallops, enormous Gulf shrimp, and alfredo sauce. It was hard to believe this mound of noodles was intended for just one person, but we put our best effort in. The alfredo was exquisitely creamy and addictive – we continued eating it long after we were full.

The pan-blackened tilapia ($17.95) came with a nice sear and a smoky Cajun flavor that the fish picked up handily. Most entrées come with coleslaw and a choice of rice pilaf or French fries. Either way, your dish will be overflowing with it. Between the seafood pasta and the rice pilaf, there easily could have been a second (and possibly third) meal from the leftovers but alas, we were without a fridge at our hotel.

The veterans were right: Brophy Bros. is a rite of passage in Santa Barbara. If you don’t mind the initial wait, the service is friendly and fast, and the ambiance is comfortable and yet authentic enough to feel like you’re in a real fishing town. And compared with pricier options in one of the most exclusive towns in the country, it’s also a great bargain.

Below: the author, blissing out during her meal.