Bice (DC)
Bice
7501 Wisconsin Ave.
Bethesda, MD
(301) 654-2250
Cuisine: Italian
Walk-ins accepted
Monday - Thursday: 11:30am - 10:30pm Friday - Saturday: 11:30am - 11:00pm Sunday 5:00pm - 10:00pm
Bice, a shiny new spot tucked into downtown Bethesda’s Chevy Chase building, is part of a chain of Italian restaurants that span the globe.
The host staff couldn’t have been nicer, falling all over us to hang coats, check out the bar, and get seated. Unfortunately, from there, we got increasingly lonely. The service was strangely slow despite the restaurant being a third full, with long waits to have our orders taken and wine delivered.
We were a bit taken aback by some price-gouging on the wine list, despite its limited selection. The “house” wines were quite good (being solid bottles) but the offerings were not as extensive as one would hope when handed a hefty binder.
The same sticker shock hit us when we turned to the menu. Sure the Washington area has its share of expense-account joints — and a relatively high cost of living. Entrees in the $25-50 range are still hard to swallow, especially if you aren’t on your employer’s dime.
That being said, the food was good. We first dove into the gratis bread basket of crisp flatbread, sun-dried tomato foccacia, and nicely chewy French slices. Served with a trio of dips (olive oil with chile flakes and rosemary, sweet pepper and tomato mayo, and a tuna spread), it disappeared quickly. The beef carpaccio with a truffle-dijon mayo and accompanying arugula salad in puff pastry further whetted appetites and was a perfect share for two.
We chose not to venture into full-on entree territory, prices being what they were, and went with the saffron and mushroom risotto ($21) and tomato and basil gnocchi ($16) for main courses. Both were delicious, homey, and classically familiar Italian, but for those prices, you want to be transported just a bit more.
Sadly, the most fun-sounding dessert, the “Skizza Claudia” ($8), fell flat. The pears showed no sign of their promised carmelization and the flatbread was too thick. Uou can’t go wrong with Nutella, and sure enough, that was the dish’s highlight.
Bice is an established chain, and while the Bethesda outpost is a polished, full-of-potential spot with pleasant culinary offerings, it needs a little work.
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By Alison L. McConnell
Alison L. McConnell is a Washington, D.C.-based journalist and writer. A native of New Jersey and upstate New York, she attended Bowdoin College in Maine and the London School of Economics before settling in Washington, where she works as a financial reporter, food freelancer, and studies at L’Academie de Cuisine. Some of her favorite things to make are risottos, roast chickens, and cakes. She abides by a long-standing family motto: McConnells always finish their desserts.
About The Humble Gourmand
The Humble Gourmand is published the first Friday of each month, edited by Alison L. McConnell, a Washington, D.C.-based journalist and writer. It is designed to offer straightforward lessons and advice to aspiring cooks, oenophiles, and all other eaters and drinkers.
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