Belga Café (DC)
Belga Café
514 8th St. SE
Washington, DC 20003
(202) 544-0100
Cuisine: Belgian
Reservations recommended
Wine list: A nice array from many French regions and the requisite South American selections, with about 140 bottles total
Beer list: Certain to happy beer enthusiasts' thirst. 45 varieties, including Stella Artois and Leffe Blonde on tap and some interesting, fruit-infused brews such as the lovely Lindeman's cassis (black currant) or peche (peach)
For brunch, there are a few indicators that make a restaurant superb or simply mediocre. When a diner comes away feeling sated and euphoric — and that diner would walk back through the establishment’s doors to experience that high again — the restaurant’s job has been done well.
The incredibly popular Belga Café, situated nicely on Barracks Row in Capitol Hill, gets high marks for all things lovely, with an afternoon of savory and sweet.
Belga gives off that certain European feel: the noisiness. The packed-as-a-can-of-sardines seating. That somewhat lackadaisical service. It gives you an idea of what you might expect from a café in Belgium, this joint’s hometown muse. It’s supposed to be hectic, and at times, even a bit holier than thou. But it’s accommodating to brunch-goers who don’t mind the shoulder-to-shoulder contact, where perfection and privacy aren’t the aims — rather the food, drink, and the conversation.
At heart, Belga’s offerings of waffles and mussels, and every brunch item between, is an effort worth venturing to through the crowds and pomposity. The warm goat cheese waffle with roasted tomato, red pepper coulis, and herb salad combines those sweet and savory notes to create something equally alluring to the tongue. The “Liege” waffles, with caramelized apples and cinnamon, are beautifully presented but arrive in a portion size that might be considered by some (many) to be on the petite side. Plate size aside, the combination of crisp waffles and caramelized apples can do no harm.
The signature dish at any proper Belgian restaurant is mussels, which at Belga come in six varieties: curry; “Asian style” (with a light curry-ginger-sesame-soya-oyster sauce); leeks with shallots and vanilla in a light cream sauce; Hoegaarden — the white Beligian ale — with bacon and celery; and the simple mussels garlic butter, with cream, celery, butter and lots of garlic.
I went with the Mussels “Mariniere,” a delightfully classic combination of white wine, shallots, and garlic. The mussels come with a cone of deliciously crispy fries to dip in mayo or — the option I prefer — dunk in the juices at the bottom of the mussels pot.
This particular reviewer loves her Bloody Marys, and a truly well-done Bloody Mary is something hard to come by — yet a prerequisite of the brunching experience. (I know, I know, Mimosas probably lead that category, but how hard is mixing bubbly with orange juice?)
The right amount of spice. The correct salt intensity. Can I get a lime and celery stick with that? It just screams “brunch” to me. Happily, Belga’s Bloody was nearly perfect. Instead of the celery stick it was celery foam, sitting atop a perfectly mixed cocktail of tomato and spicy perfection. Five stars for that.
The noise level was comparable to dining in the Verizon Center during a Georgetown game. But that’s not necessarily a negative. Belga gives that same sort of energy — a great pulse, a fun afternoon of food and drink that requires a bit of patience for your neighbors’ conversation and a struggle to hear your own. But what fun is a brunch (or college hoops game) without that energy?
When all was said and done, our four-top’s tab came to $75. Not bad, but two of our diners didn’t have alcohol. The prices were about right, although the signature mussels ($19) were far too expensive in my book.
Belga has the reputation for trying to turn tables quickly, generally leaving diners to feel pressured to pay the tab before the plates are cleared. Our reservation — the only way to go for brunch here — was at 2:00 on Easter Sunday. Our server was friendly, competent and garnered solid marks from all. Do not expect to be fawned upon, but also take it as a nice, different approach to dining out, without the “How is everything?” six times during the meal.
Thus, I recommend you get a reservation. Go. Eat the deliciously well done frites — without calorie counting — while you indulge in its little pot of yummy-ness. Put aside the preconceptions of the American dining experience and realize that sometimes, when we put away our Blackberries and cell phones and just let dining fall into place, it’s worth the wait and the small tilt in the scale. Are we not all a little bit too rushed in life, anyway?
Comments
By Lynne Funk
Lynne Funk is a Washington, D.C.-based journalist and cheesemonger. Born in Pittsburgh, Pa., she attended Penn State University where her college newspaper, The Daily Collegian, made her fall in love with words. It was the two and a half years residing in New York City, however, that sparked her obsession with food and wine. Some of her favorite things to make are rack of lamb, paella, and sauces, such as aioli. Choosing just one favorite cheese is difficult, but Pierre Robert tops her list. French wine of all varietals always please her palate.
About The Humble Gourmand
The Humble Gourmand is published the first Friday of each month, edited by Alison L. McConnell, a Washington, D.C.-based journalist and writer. It is designed to offer straightforward lessons and advice to aspiring cooks, oenophiles, and all other eaters and drinkers.
The Humble Gourmand encourages users to comment on any and all of its features, but reserves the right to remove any material deemed inappropriate.
lisawehunt
April 4 11:20 a.m. 1sounds great....I can't wait to come to DC and try this place.