The Humble Gourmand

With the hint of winter appearing in the cold air and gray skies, you may think it’s time to stop frequenting your favorite local farmers’ markets. While many markets close for the season in early and late fall, in Washington, the Dupont Circle, Arlington, and Del Ray farmers’ markets run year-round. The Silver Spring market will also stay open for its first winter.

You can’t get many of the fruits and vegetables that make farmers’ markets so popular in the summer, but there are plenty of reasons to frequent the winter markets, says Pat Lute of FRESHFARM Markets, which manages the Dupont Circle and Silver Spring markets (plus seven others in the DC area). Certain products do go out of season, including locally produced eggs, but others can be found year-round, such as dairy, meats, and hydroponic lettuces. In the wintertime, greens such as chard and kale and a wide assortment of root vegetables can be found at area markets.

What’s more, the crowds are smaller. During the high season, for example, the Dupont Circle farmer’s market can see as many as 5,000 patrons each Sunday; last winter, less than half that number attended on any given market day. There are still plenty of local producers at the Dupont Circle market: 36 will be attending each Sunday, down by only 5 from the summer season. The Silver Spring market will have 15 to 18 farmers and producers on hand this winter.

Sure, it can be difficult to imagine trying new and flavorful vegetables in the middle of January. But winter brings a diverse array that allows for a great deal of experimentation. Rutabaga, kohlrabi, and sorrel can all be found in the mid-Atlantic in December, right alongside more traditional winter vegetables such as Brussels sprouts, cabbage, and cauliflower. From October until springtime, kale and other dark leafy greens become staples, as well as celery root and winter squash. Root vegetables such as turnips and parsnips have been available sincelate fall. Flavorings don’t have to be limited to dried herbs: certain fresh herbs are abundant in December, including thyme, sage, and parsley.

Indeed, some local chefs say they are excited for what wintertime brings to the table. Chef Brian McBride of Blue Duck Tavern will be using beets, turnips, celeriac, and rutabaga, as well as kaleidoscope carrots and Korean white sweet potatoes. He pairs some of these root vegetables with late fall and winter fruits, such as apples and pears. McBride also suggested several dishes featuring local produce that can be replicated at home, such as turnip, apple, and bacon mash, and turnips pickled kimchee-style.

Poste Moderne Brasserie’s Robert Weland utilizes an assortment of root vegetables such as parsley root, salsify, turnips, and rutabaga, as well as other traditional cold-weather produce like kale and kabocha squash. Chef Miles Vaden of Arlington’s Eventide says that he looks forward to preparing braised meats such as short ribs, shanks, and oxtail with Brussels sprouts, celery root, winter squashes, and shell beans.

The focus is on hearty plates to warm guests’ “bodies and souls,” Vaden says. In winter, what could be better?

1. Nick

   December 27 2:31 p.m. 1

   Winter offerings at farmers markets sound delicious and also very healthy-- those dark greens must be very nutritious.

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