The Humble Gourmand

Smoking salmon is, for me, a function of genetics: my father did it. He came to the hobby later in life. I think he took it up primarily as a means of social interaction — he liked going to the market and talking to the fish-sellers, and he enjoyed giving the finished product to friends. As a socially reserved man, those deliveries created opportunities for him to visit and interact with people.

When my father moved out of the house he and my mother had built in the early 1950s, he went to live at a senior citizen apartment house, and his old smoker didn’t move with him. It found its way to my garage, almost by default. When he died a couple of years later, I decided I should give it a try. After all, I already had the smoker, and in keeping with his character, my father had left detailed instructions. I’d watched him go through the process and heard him describe it many times.

Thus shortly before Christmas I decided that if I was ever to have home-smoked salmon again, I would have to be the one to do it. I ordered fresh Smokehouse Products chips and pressed on.

I obtained a good-quality salmon filet with the skin still attached, about 1.5 pounds. (The recipe and process are the same for about 1-2 pounds of fish. For other weights, adjust proportionally.)

In an 8x11 glass baking pan, I created a brining solution by dissolving 3/4 cup of kosher salt and 3/4 cup of sugar into enough water to fill the pan about halfway. (If it does not fully dissolve, don’t worry.) I placed the fish, flesh side down, in the solution, ensuring it was fully submerged by placing a small dish on top to force it under the surface. I refrigerated the brining fish for about 24 hours.

The next day, I removed the fish from the brine, rinsed it in cold water, and placed it on a foil-covered piece of cardboard. The cardboard must be strong in its length so it doesn’t bend from the weight of the fish if you pick it up by one end. (A piece of a sturdy box works well.)

I placed the fish — on the cardboard — back in the refrigerator for 12 hours. During this time, the fish develops a satin-looking patina.

Now, it might seem self-evident at this point, but it’s necessary to own a home smoker in order to smoke fish. I do not purport to be an expert on the various home smokers on the market, but I have been pleased with my top-loading Little Chief 9800. Many are electric-powered with a heating element in the bottom and a removable rack. (Make sure to operate yours safely, according to the manufacturer’s instructions and any applicable laws in your area. Dispose of the chips safely.)

Next, I placed the fish on the top shelf of my smoker’s removable rack and was ready for the heart of the smoking process.

Opinions vary as to how long to smoke fish. I have found that two pans’ worth of chips achieves a satisfactorily smoky flavor. Your process may require a bit of experimentation to get the right balance.

In my smoker, the two pans’ worth take a total of approximately two hours to smoke. Leave the fish in the smoker until the chips stop smoking.

When finished, I removed the whole rack, then took the fish off the rack. I returned the fish to the refrigerator to harden. (It’s best to cover with plastic wrap after the fish has cooled and hardened.)

The finished product can be frozen and defrosted at a later date or served after it has set up. Cut on the bias and enjoy!

*Warning: Use caution when working with raw fish and thoroughly disinfect all items and surfaces that come into contact with it.*

1. thefoodscribe

   March 7 2:08 p.m. 1

   Thank you for demystifying this process. I have a small smoker box hiding in the basement that I've been afraid to take out, but now I'm inspired!

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