The Humble Gourmand

Risotto (noun, from the Italian “riso”): A rice dish originating in Northern Italy, cooked usually in meat or seafood stock and seasoned (as with saffron).

Intimidated? Mystified? Perhaps you’re bored by the idea of stirring the same thing for an hour. Understandable.

We’re here to let you in on a little secret: you don’t have to stir until your arm falls off. You don’t need to track down a little Northern Italian grandma who can take you on as her personal risotto apprentice for six months. It’s actually quite simple, and a spectacular dish that should be in your repertoire, whether it’s for weeknight suppers or a dinner party with that “wow” factor.

Let’s start with pronunciation. Forget that mumbo jumbo from the dictionary. It’s just riz - OH - toe. Risotto.

Now that you can say it (and the emails start pouring in from better Italian speakers), let’s get started. The following tutorial uses a risotto “base” that Lauren has culled from several recipes attempted over the years, and it should get you off to a good start.

First, you’ll need a large pot and a big skillet or saucepan; one that has plenty of “lip” so that you don’t stir the risotto right out of the pan. You’ll need some concentration — don’t plan to simultaneously do your taxes or anything. Count on spending 45 minutes to an hour in the kitchen, and enjoy some contemplative moments in front of the stove during that time. You could even call your mother, if you dare.

In terms of ingredients, you’ll need a serious amount of chicken broth. You can use low-sodium or low-fat if you’re a wuss — just kidding — but homemade is best. (More on stocks in our next issue.) Also on the list is butter, an onion, cheese, and some nice, dry white wine, such as Pinot Grigio, which is typically too devoid of character to be worthy of drinking but adds a soft, lovely depth here. To wit:

6 c. chicken broth
3 Tbsp. unsalted butter
1 medium yellow onion, diced
1-1/2 c. arborio rice
3/4 c. dry white wine
1/4 c. mascarpone cheese
1/3 c. freshly grated Parmesan cheese
Salt and pepper

• In the large pot, bring chicken broth to simmer and keep at a constant temperature.
  
• Melt the butter in the skillet over medium-low heat, then add the onions and salt and “sweat” until soft, about 2-3 minutes, stirring occasionally.
  
• Add rice and stir quickly so that the onions and rice are evenly mixed. Add wine and again stir quickly to distribute evenly. This is where you need to be vigilant with the stirring, as the onions and rice will try to stick (and burn) if they aren’t kept moving. Cook for a few minutes, until most of the wine is absorbed. The rice should take on an almost transparent look with little white dots in the middle. If it starts sticking, reduce the heat and stir with a purpose, scraping stuck rice off the bottom of the pan.
• Begin adding the hot chicken broth one ladleful at a time. Don’t add another until all the broth from the first is absorbed into the rice. Continue with this ladle-at-a-time process until all the broth is absorbed, stirring often enough to keep it from sticking. (No need for constant whipping — use your spare moments to sip the wine you didn’t use in the risotto.) With each passing minute, the dish should grow creamier and more lucious-looking.
• When all the broth is absorbed, remove the pan from heat. Add the mascarpone and parmesan, stir, and season with salt and pepper. Taste your lovely creation. The risotto should be creamy but slightly “al dente,” where you still sense the texture of the rice grains. (If for some reason it isn’t, leave the skillet on very low heat while you heat up another 1-2 cups chicken broth or water. Add ladlefuls as you did before, one at a time, until creaminess is achieved.)

Making It Your Own
This basic recipe is delicious all by its simplistic self, but it’s really a template for improvisation. Feel free to use your imagination and throw in whatever sounds or looks good that day. Here are a few ideas in that regard:

—Saute the onions and rice with tequila, lime, cumin, and chili (instead of white wine and cheese); add some chopped tomatoes at the finish and garnish with sour cream. Presto: Southwestern risotto.

—Red wine and Gorgonzola. Enough said. The wine turns the risotto a lovely lavender hue, making for interesting and pretty color variety on your plate.

—Throw in yellow and green onions, soy sauce, sesame seeds, lime zest, and rice vinegar; lay a sophisticated, seared tuna steak on top.

—Add pumpkin, asparagus, or another vegetable — boiled and then pureed in a blender — to the chicken stock. Use seafood stock instead of chicken for a great shrimp or mussel risotto.

—Finish off with other cheeses, such as bleu or fontina, which will enhance flavors already in the risotto.

The risotto pictured at the top of this page is the base recipe plus 1 cup of baby asparagus pieces and 2 cups sliced mushrooms, sauteed in 1/2 Tbsp. butter in the empty chicken broth pot, then stirred into the rice with the cheese.

Fill us in on your favorite risotto techniques, tips, and add-ins in the comments!

1. Lauren

   February 4 10:34 a.m. 1

   Made this with white truffle oil and porcini mushrooms this weekend. I highly recommend. :)

2. carinnemj

   February 4 4:46 p.m. 2

   Drool. I'm definitely going to make a batch later this week using your asparagus idea.

   Another good risotto dish that I last made a year ago: Add an egg and chill the risotto. Create little pancakes and place a teaspoon each of prosciutto and mozzarella in the center, then squeeze into a little ball. Coat with a beaten egg and panko bread crumbs, let them dry for an hour, then fry 'em up in hot canola oil.

   Of course, I recommend making these only if you can wear pants with elastic waistbands for the rest of the weekend/year.

3. dendac1

   February 4 4:59 p.m. 3

   Having learned at the knee of my northern Italian grandmother, I was with you all the way until you got to the tequilla, lime, cumin etc. Don't go messin' up the risotto.
   

   Actually, my grandmother would start with a chicken in the pot to make risotto. She would add small pieces of the chicken to the risotto so that it had a little extra flavor. And she would also add chopped vegatbles (asparagas, artichokes, mushrooms). By the time she was done, it was a one pot meal. (She came from a small town in the Piedmonte.)

   (And I have had truffle oil and porcinis (boletus edulus)- see Lauren above. That ain't messin', I view that as acceptable Italian cooking.)

4. Alison

   February 4 8:48 p.m. 4

   The Southwestern idea is definitely a little iconoclastic. Thought it might be fun, though.

   What a great idea to add meat and turn an already-hearty meal into one that requires no secondary dishes or fuss. Perfect.

   MJ, I am going to make your risotto balls this weekend! I love the ones at Two Amys, here in DC. (Have you had them?) Yours sound even better.

5. carinnemj

   February 5 2:16 p.m. 5

   I haven't been to Two Amy's in forever. Their arugula pizza is TDF though.

   There's a request for a future edition: creative pizzas.

6. Alison

   February 6 11:55 a.m. 6

   Roger that. It would be really fun. We'd have to re-create the Norcia (Two Amys - salami, red and yellow peppers, pepperoni)...

7. jennygirl

   March 7 5:31 a.m. 7

   I recently procured a vegetarian cookbook and I just made a lovely saffron infused risotto and stuffed it in red bell peppers. The yellow and red made it an asthetically pleasing dish as well as wonderfully aromatic and tasty.

8. Alison

   March 13 3:18 p.m. 8

   Yum. Everyone's risotto ideas are making me hungry. Did you roast those peppers first?

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