Fromagination
- Cheese cards at Fromagination
When I think about artisanal cheese, I imagine French countryside, Monsieur overseeing years of intricate and fascinating tradition crafting the perfect cheese from animal to aging cave to market.
It’s easy to become stubbornly secure in the idea that the best cheeses can only come from some place that’s accessible through a transatlantic flight … or your local artisanal cheese shop. Arguably, that’s still where the best cheeses you can find are expertly created. From the time my eyes and lips and nose neared my first French Camembert, it’s been hard to find a replica of that beautiful creaminess with its vibrant and pungent aroma.
But there are nooks of American cheese crafting that are showing signs of the grace that has long since been left to the Europeans. On a recent trip to Madison, Wisconsin, I got to see and smell and taste a tradition being solidified in American cheese.
Madison is one of those cities that shares some of the best attributes from an array of American cities. An intellectual capacity that mirrors those cities with stone buildings covered in Ivy. Friendliness that surpasses the clichéd hospitality over which the South claims to hold court. And food — well, let’s just say it’s hard to come by a place with farmer’s produce and meats placed lovingly in a town square each Saturday, beginning in the wee morning hours, which go from field to plate without much time to consider pesticide residue or organic level, let alone carbon footprint. This city and its farmers were green before Al Gore came to town.
With the grand state Capitol staring down, the Dane County Farmers’ Market, noted to be the largest in the nation, brings Wisconsin-only farmers and their crops and meats and cheeses to satisfy thousands of eager shoppers every Saturday. Restaurant owners and moms and dads alike flock to buy up the fresh ingredients. While the Green Bay Packers, with their cheeseheads and brats, still capture a still shot of Wisconsin life, it’s not just cheddar any more. (But brats and cheddar are certainly still a treat when venturing to this lovely town.)
My trip led me to Ken Monteleone, owner of Fromagination, an all-things gourmet shop situated just outside the square where farmers lay organic claim. He said his idea to build a cheese boutique came from the popularity of the market and the availability of the gorgeous cheeses Wisconsin farmers have been producing, almost quietly, for years.
Monteleone opened Fromagination at the end of September. He saw possibility and demand in the way Madison residents shop — and the fact that there is a three-year waiting list to grab a spot on the square. Six cheese farmers currently occupy stands in the market. Monteleone said about another 30 farmers are aging cheese that warranted a showcase much sooner.
Madison, Monteleone said, is a “shopping city.” People don’t mind a trip to the bakery, one to the market for fresh beets, and one to the cheese shop for some fantastic local chevre. (DreamFarm’s Farmstead fresh goat cheese melts in your mouth. Incredibly fresh, it’s not as acidic or grainy as typical goat cheese.) Monteleone likened the shopping experience for Madison folks as a “culinary event,” and similar to the European way of life.
Beyond cheese, Fromagination carries local charcuterie, including local “summer sausage,” spicy beef sticks, and Wisconsin original Nueske’s smoked ham. There are some chain gourmet products, such as Dean & DeLuca, and a large array of imported cheeses. I ticked off Italy, France, Spain, England, Vermont, Iowa, Australia, Oregon, and many more.
But the heart of Fromagination lies within Wisconsin. Local honeys, chocolates, crackers and popcorn stack the shelves. And then there’s the cheese.
Armed with a Wisconsin “cheese card,” I perused this shop with wide-open eyes and little talk. (The glass counter showcasing the assortment of fromage did enough speaking to keep my typically chatty mouth shut.) The cheese card allows you to sift through the selection with a clear description of each type. Offerings included 23 cow milk types, five goat’s milk, three sheep’s milk, and three wonderfully blended (mixed-milk) cheeses.
Near the registers, charming little “cheese orphans” sit in a basket, crying out for a home. It’s a brilliant way for customers to taste different cheeses without buying a block and great for the store, allowing it to get use out of every ounce of preciously crafted cheese. These pieces — a few bites each — set you back about a dollar. I first grabbed a sweet little piece of cheddar, a five-year-aged specimen from Mineral Point crafted by Tony and Julie Hook, of Hook’s Cheese Company. It’s a firm, traditionally hand-crafted Wisconsin orange, block-formed cheddar. Cave aged, it’s sharp and very full-flavored.
There was also the “Little Darling” from Darlington, Wisc. Crafted by Karl Geissbuhler and Greg Schulte at the Fayette Creamery, this delicious, hard cheese is what its creators call “rustic farmhouse-style cheese.” It’s made with whole, pasteurized milk from nearby dairies, cellar-aged on wooden boards that produce a natural rind. It was very earthy — think pungent with hints of mushroom. The cheese gets its complex flavor from its creation with wild molds, according to its creators.
I rarely pass by Gruyère, so when I saw a Wisconsin Grand Cru Gruyère Surchoix from Monroe, I knew I’d add it to my card. Crafted by Roth Käse and styled after a traditional Alpine gruyere, it’s made with southern Wisconsin milk in a copper-lined vat. It has the typical tastes expected — very nutty and dense with hints of caramel and dark spices. This cheese is aged more than nine months.
“Green Fields” from Cleveland was of the Wisconsin type, a semi-firm, washed rind cheese made with raw whole milk from the Klessig-Heimerl family’s cows at Saxon Homestead Creamery. It’s no joke that raw milk makes better cheese: creamier, softer, much more flavorful. This cheese, aged 60 or more days, was buttery and somewhat sweet.
If my wallet and waistline would have permitted, I would have tasted every one of these amazing offerings. The good news is that this little shop ships to lands far, far away, such as Washington, D.C. Monteleone said his happy employees will craft a Wisconsin-themed basket to your liking and have it ready for a superior wine and cheese party. Snag a few tastes from America’s Dairyland and your imagination is sure to bid adieu to the ghosts of cheese-farming past.
Comments
By Lynne Funk
Lynne Funk is a Washington, D.C.-based journalist and cheesemonger. Born in Pittsburgh, Pa., she attended Penn State University where her college newspaper, The Daily Collegian, made her fall in love with words. It was the two and a half years residing in New York City, however, that sparked her obsession with food and wine. Some of her favorite things to make are rack of lamb, paella, and sauces, such as aioli. Choosing just one favorite cheese is difficult, but Pierre Robert tops her list. French wine of all varietals always please her palate.
About The Humble Gourmand
The Humble Gourmand is published the first Friday of each month, edited by Alison L. McConnell, a Washington, D.C.-based journalist and writer. It is designed to offer straightforward lessons and advice to aspiring cooks, oenophiles, and all other eaters and drinkers.
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Mimi
November 20 9:09 p.m. 1Love this place! Love the orphans, too, and took quite a few of them home.
Mad_Mark
November 18 10:43 p.m. 2Lynne,
Very nice feature on my favorite shop in Madison. Fromagination rocks!
BTW, the next time that you visit the Madison area, you must check out the local beer scene: Capital, New Glarus, Great Dane, and Ale Asylum for starters.