The Humble Gourmand

My first impression of Burgundy may or may not be atypical: I had just arrived in Dijon, high off Paris, ready to wander and relax. I was sitting down to enjoy a glass of wine at one of the numerous outdoor cafes nestled in the narrow medieval streets when, by God, the heavens opened on my head.

Well, I thought, this really sucks.

The rain subsided almost as quickly as it came, though, and the waitstaff at neighboring cafes scurried out, dried off a few chairs, and watched as patrons eagerly sat down to resume their leisurely afternoons — chattering, smoking, drinking wine. I watched in amazement and marveled at a scene that, had it occurred in downtown Washington, wouldn’t have happened. That sudden downpour likely would have ended al fresco dining for the day.

Such was the general attitude I encountered while in Burgundy. As I strolled down the ancient, cobblestoned streets, sampled Comté and pain d’epice (gingerbread), wandered in and out of shops and enjoyed wine outside, I couldn’t help but think that whoever came up with my home state of Maine’s tourism slogan, “The Way Life Should Be,” had probably spent a decent amount of time in Burgundy.

The truth is, Burgundy, or Bourgogne, is a way of life. Sure, it’s a region of France, an appellation for wine, the home to Dijon mustard, Comté cheese, pain d’epice and arguably the most mind-blowing wines in the world, but there is an attitude of simple elegance, self-assuredness and, well, joie de vivre that seems to permeate the air.

From a wine perspective, Burgundy is certainly where it’s at, Most, if not all, wine experts will say Burgundy boasts the world’s finest wine. Yet to many, “Burgundy” simply means red wine, which neither conveys nor does justice to the complex system of subregions, microclimates, appellations and villages that distinguish the many wines produced there. The complexities alone are enough to intimidate the heck out of someone who just wants a tasty bottle of wine to take home for dinner, or to a friend’s house for a party.

We’ve reviewed a few Burgundies in The Humble Gourmand’s young life, and have expounded a bit on an appellation or two, but here’s what we hope is a helpful rundown on Burgundy subregions to encourage you to branch out and explore some of these positively transporting wines.

First things first. While there are over 70 official appellations in Burgundy proper, the following are helpful “main categories” to look for on a label:

• Chablis
• Côte de Nuits/Hautes-Côtes de Nuits (Côte d’Or)
• Côte de Beaune/Hautes-Côtes de Beaune (Côte d’Or)
• Côte Chalonnaise
• Mâconnais
• Beaujolais

Now, a history lesson: in stark contrast to Bordeaux, where most great wines come from Chateaux (big wine producers), some of the greatest Burgundies have typically come from small winemakers. Before the French Revolution, the church owned most of the vineyards in Burgundy, which were seized and dissolved after the revolution. As a result of inheritance laws, vineyards continued to be divided into smaller and smaller plots, and now many growths are owned by nearly a hundred individual growers.

The difference between the major subregions of Burgundy lie in climate, soil, and grape variety. Though most wines produced in Burgundy are made of either 100% Chardonnay or 100% Pinot Noir grapes (with the occasional Gamay rolling around), some regions, like Chablis, produce almost exclusively one or the other.

Here’s a rundown of the major characteristics of the major subregions:

Chablis
The northernmost subregion of Burgundy, producing mostly Chardonnay — and arguably the best Chardonnays in the world. Its temperamental climate makes for nerve-wracking growing seasons.

Côte de Nuits
Produces some of the world’s best-known Pinot Noirs and is primarily a red wine-producing region. This region can sometimes be heavy in the rain department, which can cause a thin-tasting wine — a detriment to otherwise full and rich reds.

Côte de Beaune
Both Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are produced here, but Côte de Beaune is more known for its Chardonnays. The climate is a little warmer than Côte de Nuits and therefore the grapes ripen a little earlier.

Côte Chalonnais (Mercurey)
Also produces both Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, and climate tends to be a little drier than the Côte d’Or. Its geography often protects the grapes from harsh conditions and thus the wines are often more consistent year in and year out.

Mâconnais
Produces mostly white wine, and some of the more affordable whites in all of Burgundy. Some Gamay is planted here as well. Climate is similar to Côte Chalonnais.

Beaujolais
Known for its Gamay — particularly the famous Beaujolais Nouveau and Villages.

Aside from the regions, knowing something about vintage is helpful when selecting a bottle, especially if you’re looking to spend more than $20. In recent history, 2005 is certainly the most “perfect storm”-type notable vintage. (Both of the wines we review in this issue are 2005s.)

When it comes right down to it, Burgundy, as a region, like its wines, is so nuanced and varied that you can explore it for years on end and still find new and exciting wines, places, food, people. I think we’ve only just begun our love affair with Burgundy, and I have a feeling it will be a lifetime commitment.

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