There’s no way of getting around this: Our newest recipe, Christian Reynoso’s Chicken and Potato Gratin With Brown Butter Cream, is soul-warming, worry-soothing, cold-weather food. Comfort food, if you will. In October 2020, every American could use the comfort of chicken gratin. Reynoso’s chicken gratin is inspired by Richard Olney’s chicken gratin, which appeared in his book Simple French Food. Olney cooks his chicken in a Gruyère custard, but Reynoso’s gratin is simpler and more sleek.