Chef Erick Williams used to look forward to Thanksgiving as the day when he'd eat that special once-a-year food: a bowl of cereal. For all his ambivalence about celebrating Thanksgiving, Williams is nevertheless very opinionated about how Thanksgiving food should taste. And the mac and cheese—well, the mac and cheese wasn’t on the chef’s mind, because up until a few years ago he’d never been a fan. But when he started planning the menu for Virtue, where he serves American southern food, Williams had to face mac and cheese straight on. That’s not my jam.’”Williams knew that few dishes conjure as much emotion as a mac and cheese.