Claire Saffitz has made a lot of pumpkin pie. As a lifelong lover of pumpkin pie and then as a food editor in the Bon Appétit Test Kitchen, she’s cooked through more iterations of the Thanksgiving classic than you can imagine. “What I don’t like,” she told me in a recent phone call, “is when pumpkin pie tastes like baked purée with too many spices and not enough eggs.” Good pumpkin pie, she says, is custardy, but not stodgy: The slices should have a “slight quiver.” Her recipe gets you there. But even if you already have a go-to recipe you love, Saffitz has a tip that can be applied to any pumpkin pie: Let it cool in the oven. Saffitz also says you should keep your pumpkin pie out of the refrigerator at all costs—at least until after you slice it.