The Humble Gourmand

Dear Colder-Than-Normal Thoreauvian,

Greetings from our mini ice-age, when my thoughts and yours turn to rich food and excellent, affordable red wine—among other things. And I do have a marvelous, almost inexplicably inexpensive red wine to recommend to you: Yes it is one of those hyphenated French country reds—this time from the lovely Anjou region of The Loire Valley which is more famous for its powerful and luscious white wines, made from Chenin Blanc, than for its fine and undervalued reds, mostly produced from the quirkiest of all red wine varietals, Cabernet Franc.

Cab Franc as we affectionately refer to it, plays a crucial role in St. Emilion (and to a lesser extent Pomerol) and has become a darling of growers in the mountainous regions of the Napa and Sonoma valleys. It is also The red wine grape of the central Loire Valley. We usually think of Chinon and Bourgeuil when choosing a Loire red, but the Anjou has proved equally hospitable to the grape in the last 15-20 years and several estates are doing fabulous work bringing out the best from this hard-to-please grape. The key to C.F. is that its needs schist in the soil and enough sun to ripen sufficiently. When these conditions are met and the grower knows just when to pick her fruit, the results can be very exciting.

A properly made Loire Cabernet Franc exhibits a superbly spicy, aromatic bouquet which sets the taste buds into over drive. What accounts for the insanely sensual bouquet of the $800-a-bottle Cheval Blanc, one of St. Emilions’ 2 best wines? The 50-60% Cab Franc which gives the wine its backbone and its perfume. A case of the wonderful Loire Cabernet Franc we are offering will cost you less than 1/50th (!) the price of a bottle of Cheval Blanc! Just as good as its majestic and famous Bordeaux counterpart? No. But amazing for $16—indeed for $30 it would easily be worth the price.

The estate, and we are so glad that you asked, is called Chateau Perrey-Jouannet. The 50 acre Domaine really does have a lovely, modestly sized Chateau that would be the envy of any Park Avenue Condo dweller. The region in which the property is situated was once famous for its highly prized healing waters. The estate is devoted to Chenin Blanc and Cabernet Franc. All vineyard work is done by hand. No new oak is ever used—nor would it benefit the wine which has so much internal flavor that it needs no addition. Perhaps this is due both to the excellent soil composition –schist, gravel and quartz and the fact they are blessed by southern exposure which of course enhances ripeness. My first encounter with their splendid 2005 was at a tasting where it out-classed nearly every other red wine irrespective of price or origin. Juicy, mouth-coating and lively with just the right interplay of sexy berry notes and Moroccan spices, the wine invited repeat tasting. I could not help but notice that the other tasters kept coming back for more—as well they should have. Like other well-made wines from the Loire Valley it offered a combination of intensity, restraint and elegance which defines old world wines at their best. The alcohol level will not cause immediate somnolence, an added benefit of most Loire red wines. The Perray-Jouannet Anjou rouge is the most compelling under-$20 red wine I have experienced in some time. I could not recommend it too highly. This beauty is worthy of a full-case purchase. It is an ideal red for savory, flavorful winter dishes and is one of the few reds that compliment Cantonese cuisine.

2005 Chateau Perrey-Jouannet Anjou Rouge

$15.85/bottle
2-bottle minimum

Limited quantities — First come first served.

Does not include local tax or delivery / shipping. Pick up option is available (please inquire). We ship to 48 states.

Please email mary at thoreauwinesociety.com with desired quantities and Mary will confirm your order.

Bob Millman
Thoreau Wine Society

1. account money

   February 27 8:18 a.m. 1

   After reading you site, Your site is very useful for me .I bookmarked your site!

2. finance personal software

   March 1 4:58 p.m. 2

   After reading you site, Your site is very useful for me .I bookmarked your site! I am been engaged 10 years on the Free finance personal software If you have some questions, please get in touch with me.

3. free battery

   March 6 9:20 a.m. 3

   After reading you site, Your site is very useful for me .I bookmarked your site!My Home free battery

Post yours

You're not logged in. Would you like to register or log in?.