The Humble Gourmand

It wasn’t that long ago that Merlot was the most popular red wine in America. Besides, Merlot is the key grape in Pomerol, where it is the basis for a half-dozen of the sexiest, most expressive and expensive red wines made on this planet. But then came Pinot Noir which supplanted Merlot this decade to such an extent that many wine lovers will not even admit to ever having purchased a bottle of Merlot. Fashion is fashion. But quality transcends current sensibilities which change every 10 years. In the meanwhile many fine Merlots and Merlot based blends are being produced both on the west coast and of course all throughout Bordeaux. The trouble with many new world Merlots is that they are too soft and easy, lacking the structural spine of Cabernets and the elegant acidity of Pinot Noirs.

It is always a pleasure to taste a Merlot which is a real wine, not just fermented grape juice. Mary and I recently encountered an example of an excellent Napa Merlot at a trade tasting. This Merlot is from an artisinal, under-the-radar winery called Baxter. Established in 2002 by the father and son team of Philip Baxter Sr. and Jr., their goal is to make wines exclusively from single vineyard sites with vines of sufficient age, to allow fermentation on their own yeasts and to age them in neutral small barrels until ready for bottling. No fining or filtering is ever done. Currently the Baxters produce 2 excellent Pinots from northern sites, 2 Cabernets, a Zinfandel and 1 Merlot from a vineyard called Rodgers in Oakville. The style of the wines is decidedly European with an emphasis on texture, length and classical balance. The Baxters eschew the sweet, lush, juicy style popular with the wine press. This is the 2nd time I have tasted these singular wines and my admiration for them has not diminished.

The 2004 Merlot, just released was aged in 2 and 3 year old barriques for 36 months. Why so long? Because they liked the way the wine was evolving and felt no need to bottle it before their palates told them that it was ready. How old fashioned. I was deeply impressed by the firmness and smoky power of the wine. No fat, plumy sweetness here. This Merlot seems to be more about the vineyard than it is about the grape. The grape as transmission of site and conditions—the very goal of classical winemaking. This is a serious, interesting, engaging Merlot which will convert doubters in but a few sips. Congratulations to the Baxter’s for demonstrating what Merlot can be at its best! Neither inexpensive nor expensive, the 2004 Baxter Rodgers Vineyard Merlot is $32.95. Ask yourself what kind of wine you would get at a restaurant for under $35. Nothing even close to the Baxter Merlot, that is for certain. In my opinion the 2002 Baxter is the equal or better than the vast majority of Merlots retailing for $50-60. Enjoy this Merlot marvel with a roast Rack of Lamb. Or a roast chicken from Bouley’s bakery.

2004 Baxter Merlot Rodger’s Vineyard

$29.95 per bottle, no minimum or purchase. Limited quantities - first come, first served.

Does not include local tax or delivery / shipping. Pick-up option is available.

Please inquire via email: mary at thoreauwinesociety.com

Bob Millman
Thoreau Wine Society

1. free call international

   February 16 10:39 a.m. 1

   humblegourmand.com; You saved my day again.

2. Dianenek

   February 22 3 a.m. 2

   Gals You have got to see this. Obama playing on XBox. Funniest video ever. http://bit.ly/bllhx1

Post yours

You're not logged in. Would you like to register or log in?.