The Humble Gourmand

I suspect that you have tasted more than a few Riojas, Spain’s noblest and most elegant red wine. The problem with Rioja is that there are really three styles being produced, all of which are on the market: The traditional - which is no longer the majority, the International (low yields, ultra concentrated, fermented in French barrels, sweet, oaky and dark) and the mixed regime wines. They all have their place but frankly it is the traditional wines which express the soils, climate and the personality of Rioja most accurately. The charm, finesse and gentle seductiveness which have characterized Riojas since they started to be produced in the late 1800s gets lost when the Tempranillo grape — the quintessential grape of Rioja — is subject to internationalist meddling.

One of the best and most affordable of the traditional Riojas is that from the Marques de Tomares whose excellent wines are brought to America by Jim Turney, founder and chief bottle washer of Parador Imports. Jim and I worked together at Morrell & Co. for a number of years. He always wanted to bring traditional Spanish wines to the States and waited until he found a wine that pleased his delightfully old-fashioned palate during his regular visits to Spain from 1998 onwards.

Marques de Tomares was established as a coop in 1910 and started releasing wines made entirely from it’s own vineyard holdings in the 1990s. Like other traditional Rioja producers, The Tomares family releases 3 wines: Their bread and butter Rioja is labeled as a Crianza, i.e. aged 1 year in new and neutral American and French oak and then aged an additional 14 months in bottle before being put on the market. Their 2nd wine is a Reserva in great vintages like 1996 and 2001. From time to time, tiny quantities of a Gran Reserva are made which sees 8 years in barrel.

The vines from which all the wines are produced come from 2 distinct terroirs in Rioja Alta (the best part of Rioja) and range in age from 33-55 years. There is nothing virtuous or egocentric about the operation: just excellent grapes handled gently and fermented and aged with minimum fuss and manipulation. Dried cherries, tobacco leaf, and cinnamon notes lead to a medium bodied palate which gently fills the mouth with earthy and red fruits nuances. The underlying dry texture is pure Rioja and lets you know just what you are tasting. Earthy yet elegant, expressive yet restrained, gentle yet persistent: A near perfect Crianza. The wine is ideal for chicken, pork, cornish hen, soft cheeses, and roasted meats.

2005 Marques de Tomares Crianza

$19.85 per bottle, no minimum for purchase
Limited quantities - First come, first served
Does not include local tax or delivery / shipping. Pick up option is available (please inquire).

Please comment with desired quantities and Mary will confirm your order.

Slainte!
Bob
Thoreau Wine Society

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