2006 Sylvain Pataille Passetoutgrain
Dear wine lovers,
Several months ago my eloquent and humorous (thus proving that these two attributes are not mutually exclusive) partner in the Thoreau Wine Society, Mary Taylor, wrote about Sylvain Pataille and one of his superb Marsannays. During this past summer’s International Pinot Noir Celebration, Sylvain showed his top wine—a blend from old vines in several of his premier cru quality vineyards which he calls ‘L’Ancestral’ — and it stole the show, as they say. Mr. Pataille is as passionate and knowledgeable about wine as he is likable. He has risen to the top in the Cote de Nuits both as a wine maker and consultant for very good reasons: he has exceptional technical skills and a fabulous palate — qualities which do not always exist in the same person. The moment you start tasting his wines and listening to him, you know you are in the presence of the real thing.
Recently I tasted several of Pataille’s wines at a tasting organized by his distributor, Michael Feuerstein of Pas Mal Importers/Distributors. One delightful wine that caught my fancy was Pataille’s least expensive wine: The 2006 Passetoutgrain. This appellation refers to red wines made in Burgundy by the co-fermenting of 2/3 Gamay (The red wine grape of Beaujolais) and 1/3rd Pinot Noir. Passetoutgrains are the only red wines in Burgundy proper that can legally include the Gamay grape which, until the late 1300s was as ubiquitous in the vineyards of Burgundy, perhaps more so than Pinot Noir.
Gamay was banned from Burgundy by Philippe The Bold in 1395 but made its way back to Burgundy in the late 1880s. You just cannot keep a good grape down. By nature, Passetoutgrains are meant to be easy drinking entry level Burgundies. But of course when a grower/producer as scrupulous and enlightened at Sylvain Pataille makes a Passetoutgrain it will and does have an extra dimension of flavor and class easily surpassing the vast majority of such wines.
To the easy charm correctly found in Passetoutgrains there is a voluptuous and vibrant core of rich, mineral-drenched fruit which speaks very clearly the language of northern Burgundy. Pataille’s Passetoutgrain is indeed a synthesis of the best of the 2 grapes from which it is made: Delightful and arresting at the same time. Not many wine makers can pull this off. But Sylvain Pataille so often transcends his peers that perhaps this is not a surprise after all. This is a delicious, sensual, food-friendly and affordable red Burgundy. Can one ask for more?
2006 Sylvain Pataille Passetoutgrain
$21.50/bottle, 2-bottle minimum
Limited quantities- First come first served.
Does not include local tax or delivery / shipping. Pick up option is available (please inquire).
Please post a comment with desired quantities and Mary will confirm your order.
Bob Millman
ThoreauWineSociety
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By Mary Taylor
Mary Taylor, a Bostonian who has been involved the New York wine trade forever, recently moved full-time to Burgundy to send dispatches from the trenches: “It’s dirty work, but someone has to do it.” Mary is known for her love for elegant and nuanced European wines. She works for the Thoreau Wine Society, where members receive weekly wine offerings along with musings about life, love and travel (ThoreauWineSociety.com).
About The Humble Gourmand
The Humble Gourmand is published the first Friday of each month, edited by Alison L. McConnell, a Washington, D.C.-based journalist and writer. It is designed to offer straightforward lessons and advice to aspiring cooks, oenophiles, and all other eaters and drinkers.
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