The Humble Gourmand

Dear friends,

It’s certainly high time to send my latest wine newsletter, just in time for irrational and exuberant stock markets and a reported increase in consumer plonk-buying. As I maintain, the best way to save money on your wine purchasing is to buy and drink less, but better, and jettison those cases of “yellow monkey” that led you down a dark path.

Here’s your chance for retreat — Domaine de l’Ecu Muscadet sur lie ‘Expression de Gneiss’ 2006 from Guy Bossard.

It’s another finding thanks to the great Bourgignon Vignerons, who prefer to explore other regions whence dining, and it was thus at dinner party, held on a wintry night in Beaune, that we were offered this bottle. I was surprised at the general excitement over the Bossard wine because in my experience Muscadet has been a light and insignificant aperitif. Yet there is a huge following for the top producers of this Melon de Bourgogne raisin that can be aged for upwards of 20 years, giving complex and yet fresh aromas that are enticingly mineral.

Towards the spring, in the Breton town of Guerande, known for its wonderful grey salts, I rediscovered this wine while picnicking on incredible shellfish, bulots, oysters, spider crab. This wine was coruscating its loveliness throughout lunch and I was thrilled that the money spent on great food was well-complemented. C’etait une tres bonne association.

I am not afraid to assert that Guy Bossard is the top producer of Muscadet. A doyenne of Bettane, La Revue, and so forth — in the US, it is Tanzer to whom I would immediately turn for a review on such an intellectual wine. His 90 point review of the 2005 “Gneiss” said: “Light yellow-gold. Dusty, precise, mineral-laced citrus and quince aromas are lightly kissed by peppery spice. Elegant, finely etched lime and pink grapefruit flavors show good depth and purity in an elegant, racy package.”

Having been certified organic in the mid-‘70s, Monsieur Bossard is a pioneer, then going to biodynamics in 1986, when most of the hip, young biodynamic producers were learning their ABCs (think French accent). This 17-hectare, fifth-generation domain is situated smack dab in Sevre et Maine, in the gorgeous hamlet of le Landreau. Using compost, moon cycles, hand plowing, hand-picking (bien sur!), 45 year-old vines, the wines of Guy Bossard have won many a blind tasting (the Hermine d’Or) and the great Matt Kramer has said “If Burgundy’s Domaine Leroy made Muscadet, it would be Domaine de l’Ecu … The prices are absurdly low.”

Of the three cuvees, I chose the ‘Expression de Gneiss’ – gneiss refers to the sub-soil of granite and schist, the wine tends to have elusive herbaceous aromas, a stony fresh juicy minerality, salinic, alkalinic, citrusy, granite-inflected, bright, and yet broad and rich. One of the best wines I’ve found thus far.

Domaine de l’Ecu Muscadet sur lie ‘Expression de Gneiss’ 2006 from Guy Bossard

$19.99 per bottle

Straight from carefully temperature-controlled storage. Shipping and applicable tax not included (we do not charge for out of state tax). Offer will close Tuesday. The wine will be available for shipping, delivery or pickup within the next 7 days.

If you would like to order, please email with desired amounts and I will reply with easy account set-up info. mary@thoreauwinesociety.com

If you’re inclined, please refer some wine-drinking friends, in support of small, unique things.

Slainte,

Mary Taylor
Thoreau Wine Society

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