The Humble Gourmand

Dear friends,

Writing from a typical rainy Saturday in Beaune… I have been reading up on the idea of impermanence, which in wine terms aligns with the ethic that we should make our choices carefully. Perhaps rather than consuming vast amounts of plonk, we exchange that for smaller amounts of beautifully-made wine to be savored slowly – a metaphor I hope I can remember when life takes off today.

A friend and I are en route today to the southern metropolis of Montpelier to participate in a biodynamic wine fair – as we seek more of a grasp on the region by eating and making merry with the local winemakers, who I often neglect in this newsletter – being so partial to northern appellations. However there is a lot of singing terroir in the south and as I’ve discovered from the Burgundy gang, who gets giddy when this wine is found on a local list, that one of the best wines that come from the south of France is made by Domaine de Montcalmes, who makes one single poignant staggering Syrah blended with 35% Mourvedre and Grenache.

Having worked at the renowned Domaine de la Grange des Peres, winemaker Frederic Pourtalie returned to the family business which, at the time (in the mid ‘90s) was selling grapes from its 25 hectares to cooperatives. Having realized the potential of the appellation and of his own passion, Frederic set out to weed through the family’s vineyards, aiming to make small quantities of carefully made juice from this limestone rocky terroir, perfect for minerality, often getting as low as 10 hectolitres per hectare (the average is 40-50) — meaning he encourages the vines to produce the best fruit even is that means losing half of it. There is enough average wine in the Languedoc and Frederic did not want to add to the pool – and thus here is a wine made from selected clusters – vines that were not producing to their potential have been replanted, only the best parcels are even picked, then aged in 1-3 year old barrels bought from Romanee-Conti.

By winos in the US, this domaine is considered “Up and Coming.” Here in Europe, it is already among the ranks of the greats (the British have long-since discovered it!).

As we last tasted the magnificent 2005 vintage, my companions and I marveled at it’s elegance. Tasting notes simply say: fluidity, grace, presence, finesse, long lovely finish, no heat, equilibre (balance).

In restaurants and at home we’ve had older vintages that are just so pure and delineated – we’ve found in this wine just delicious haunting tertiary aromas, depth, focus, and pure fruit.

Please feel free to drink now, or cellar for 10 years. Made in tiny quantities.

Domaine de Montcalmes Coteaux de Languedoc 2005

$33.95 per bottle / $195 per 6 bottles
Straight from carefully temperature-controlled storage. Shipping and applicable tax not included (we do not charge for out of state tax). Offer will close Tuesday. Will be available for shipping, delivery or pickup within the next 7 days.

Slainte,
Mary Thoreau Wine Society

“Our village life would stagnate if it were not for the unexplored forests and meadows which surround it. We need the tonic of wildness.” –Thoreau

Post yours

You're not logged in. Would you like to register or log in?.