The Humble Gourmand

Dear readers,

If you love wine (which you should) I would highly recommend grabbing a copy of Kermit Lynch’s fabulous book, Adventures on the Wine Route – the decades-old story of the importer’s comb through France in search of revelatory winemakers.

Monsieur Lynch was recently in town for tasting. In my copy, he signed: “To Mary, the best thing I’ve witnessed tonight. Here’s to you.”

Clearly, Kermit’s articulate taste in women corresponds to that of his in wine, as he is responsible for bringing some of France’s most beloved estates to the American market, wines that speak of where they are from in their haunting subtle beauty.

Among the visionary Lynch portfolio, is the Domaine Poujol in the Languedoc – an estate that had been dysfunctional (though endowed with lovely vineyard sites), until 1995 when Robert and Kim Cripps revived it. “We’ve watched with more than passing interest as the disheveled vineyards they purchased have slowly been converted to organic farming, and through a sheer labor of love have begun to resemble something one more commonly finds at a great baronial estate. There are no barons at Poujol, just an inspirational couple with great plans for the future.”

Some years ago winemaker Robert Kripps and his lovely New York agent passed by Kris’ shack on 14th street to greet and taste with us, (the voyage up to apartment included a 45-minute elevator malfunction and 2 firemen). I immediately appreciated Robert’s humility and the honesty of his wines – this 2005 Podio Alto – a Syrah, Grenache, Mourvedre blend of authenticity – a purity of aroma and a structure that was regal, but not extracted. It deserved my highest marks, which generally is not 90 whatever points but a check plus system from school days. I’ve regretted not having before sent an offer on this beautifully southern-French, Languedocian gem which can take at least ten years of ageing, but is drinking very well now. The grapes are handpicked from hillside vineyards that yield vivid fruit in sparse quantity, fermented by local indigenous yeast, and matured in large oak foudres.

The Maison de la Region Languedoc-Roussillon just held a trade tasting of the most highly rated wines of the Languedoc. (How they afford a gleaming glass front in midtown, beats me). I went through the room feeling like too many wines were clunky chunky modern things that I couldn’t quite relate to. Towards the end of the tasting, I ran into a wine that finally had a sense of place – it had a charm of its own – it tasted like the south of France, like the sun, the farm, the earth, the fruit – a purity that felt quite rare for that particular tasting – eh voila, I rediscovered the Poujol, Podio Alto 2005. This is a beautiful effort and a steal for the price. Quite difficult to find in the US retail market (as far as I can see).

Podio Alto 2005

$24.99 – no minimum for purchase
(This is not the cuvee Proteus, which they sell for $15)

Slainte,
Mary Taylor

Thoreau Wine Society

“But then of course Cassis tastes better in Cassis! Debussy sounds better after a walk through the foggy, puddle streets of late-night Paris.” – Kermit

1. Diane

   December 18 2:24 p.m. 1

   great post. I would love to follow you on twitter. By the way, did anyone learn that some Iranian hacker had busted twitter yesterday. Diane

2. Andrea

   December 18 7:08 p.m. 2

   Today is my lucky day :) My mom had promised me to gift a nintendo wii this christmas. But I got it for free, yeee. While looking for some place where I could get it cheap or with some discount, I found this website http://bit.ly/5PYFPX which offered a chance to win nintendo wii, as a special christmas promotion. All I needed to do was to enter my mobile number to enter into the contest. And yup, I won it. Lucky me. Now I am thinking what to ask my mom as a gift. :P What do you guy's suggest?

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