$19 German Pinot Noir Embarasses French & American Counterparts
I was at a tasting recently featuring mostly German Rieslings with a few relevant interlopers. One of the most interesting and enjoyable of these non-Rieslings was a lovely estate Pinot Noir from the Becker winery in the Pfalz region of Germany. The Becker estate is unique in that it owns vineyards in Alsace and Germany but makes all its wines at its estate in the town of Schweigen, which is a bike ride away from Strasbourg. The wines are imported by Rudi Wiest whose portfolio of German producers is arguably the most distinguished group of German wines brought to America. Becker may very well be the finest producer of Pinot Noir in Germany and is so recognized by his peers. His top single vineyard Pinots command Burgundian prices and easily sell out. Fortunately for us, young and very smart Frederick Wilhelm Becker has decided to bottle an estate Pinot which retails for under $20. Frankly, most inexpensive Pinots are not worth the bottles they are put in. What an unexpected joy then to recommend a $19 Pinot Noir that is as delicious as it is affordable. The wine reminded me of a Cru Beaujolais — Fleurie in particular — but with the unmistakable aromatics and texture of good French Pinot.
The 2007 estate Pinot Noir is a superb value with lovely balance between gentle tart, red fruits, acidity and the mineral character one almost never experiences in Pinots under $35. The wine is made in traditional 2,400 liter wood casks (called Fudres) and is an easy- on- the- body 12.5% alcohol. This is a wine which can be paired successfully with many different foods including Salmon which is so tough on wine. Buy this Pinot by the case and make it your summer red. I have rarely tasted an under-$20 red wine I have liked so much.
—Bob Millman
Becker Pinot Noir Estate 2007
$19.50
If you’re interested in ordering, leave a comment or email mary@thoreauwinesociety.com
Slainte,
Mary Taylor
Thoreau Wine Society
Comments
By Mary Taylor
Mary Taylor, a Bostonian who has been involved the New York wine trade forever, recently moved full-time to Burgundy to send dispatches from the trenches: “It’s dirty work, but someone has to do it.” Mary is known for her love for elegant and nuanced European wines. She works for the Thoreau Wine Society, where members receive weekly wine offerings along with musings about life, love and travel (ThoreauWineSociety.com).
About The Humble Gourmand
The Humble Gourmand is published the first Friday of each month, edited by Alison L. McConnell, a Washington, D.C.-based journalist and writer. It is designed to offer straightforward lessons and advice to aspiring cooks, oenophiles, and all other eaters and drinkers.
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