Côtes-du-Rhône Blanc: This is France
Dear friends,
Down on the illustrious south Jersey Shore, a beautifully peaceful setting, almost idyllic, but the general culture of food and drink leaves much to be desired. What happened en route to the new world? Why were we unable to import the priority of garden and farm fresh ingredients, the search for wines that are subtle and unique, enjoyed at long-lingering meals as a cultural standard? Since you read this letter, I can assume you are endowed with the grace to take an active interest what you consume and from where and who it comes.
In this instance, Bob (Mr. Millman) and I discovered and tasted these surprisingly excellent wines from the Drome Department (which is slightly north of Avignon in Provence), we debated, discussed, analyzed and we simply loved the outcome.
Dick Vermeersch, a former organic grocer in Antwerp, turned race car driver, then viticulturalist, has taken his former lives and brought them all into his winemaking philosophy. Having bought a farmhouse in the Provencal foothills of Mount Ventoux, he and wife Ann, who studied Oenology in Chateauneuf du Pape, have set about making the highest quality, most authentic, low yielded (sometimes 25 hl/ha), organic but sturdy wines as is to be found in this part of the world.
While there are many lovely wines coming from the winery, we picked their Cotes-du-Rhone Blanc. This is not your typical Cotes-du-Rhone Blanc (if you can even call CDR Blanc ‘typical’), but is alive, has real vibration and tension. From beautifully healthy vineyards, which Dick treats with great respect, the varietals in this white are Roussanne, Marsanne, and Clairette. Grown on limestone and clay soils, gently foot-pressed, and picked at just the right moment before it becomes over-ripe. The aromas are indeed delicious, as Bob reacted: “This is France;” you can smell the sun, and there are charming little hints of lime and white peach. Being a southern white, the wine is rich, but also balanced, neither hot nor clunky. The bottles are adorned with the winery’s slogan: ‘Powered by Nature.’ Bravo, Monsieur Vermeersch.
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By Mary Taylor
Mary Taylor, a Bostonian who has been involved the New York wine trade forever, recently moved full-time to Burgundy to send dispatches from the trenches: “It’s dirty work, but someone has to do it.” Mary is known for her love for elegant and nuanced European wines. She works for the Thoreau Wine Society, where members receive weekly wine offerings along with musings about life, love and travel (ThoreauWineSociety.com).
About The Humble Gourmand
The Humble Gourmand is published the first Friday of each month, edited by Alison L. McConnell, a Washington, D.C.-based journalist and writer. It is designed to offer straightforward lessons and advice to aspiring cooks, oenophiles, and all other eaters and drinkers.
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