The Humble Gourmand

Dear friends,

The sun is shining over Burgundy for the first time in weeks — the cold, damp fog is lifting, bringing my spirits along with it. Who knows what the 2009 vintage will bring, but it has been a cold winter, allowing the vines to rest dormant. With these offerings, most of the time I have good access to recent vintages — most suitable for your cellars, wine-fridges, bedroom closets, wherever you might keep your wine; though sometimes it’s fun to immediately drink the wine we buy — and thus I thought I’d offer something deliciously pret a boire — something perfectly suited for the transition from winter to early spring, and from a Grand Millesime to boot.

I feel like an expert on the wines of Michel Gaunoux, since circumstances have led me there to taste twice in the last few weeks, and they so kindly opened a substantial range of older vintages. This lovely domain, in the center of Pommard, is headed by Madame Gaunoux and her two adult children, Alexandre and Anne, with a family history that dates to 1742 (not to be confused by the Jean-Michel Gaunoux estate in nearby Meursault). A classically Burgundian apprehension leads me to wonder if this kind though timid family purposefully shy away from the critics, as I see little mention of them from Bettane nor Meadows nor Tanzer and they are rarely seen on the retail market.

However there remains a good following, and having just tasted several vintages, I deeply appreciate their style, which is that of purity and minimal intervention; these are very classic, old-style wines, delicate, while aromatically elegant and compelling.

The all-pinot noir Gaunoux range stretches from Bourgogne through Pommard, Beaune and Corton Renardes. This is not an overly ambitious operation, though the family has good holdings in these respective appellations, and, for example, the Gaunoux’s declassified their entire 2004 vintage - it just simply isn’t for sale because they weren’t satisfied with the vintage. I think that shows some integrity.

Choosing the Beaune, I felt that it offered the best value for money in the range, although certainly the Pommard 1er Cru was delightful as well. However, these are not ‘cheap’ wines and I see that their village-level Pommard sells for about $100 at Astor wines, and while I tasted the others with delight, it was their older vintage Beaunes that were more structured, and still feminine.

This ‘99 Beaune, although classified as a village wine comes from 4 separate parcels, 2 being premier cru. The tannins are especially ripe and soft, the aromatic profile is enveloping and mysteriously charming, giving some hints of exotic fruit mixed with coffee bean, though that is entirely subjective. The wine is by no means on its way down, indeed it possesses a great deal of life, and proves to be drinking splendidly now; very pure and mineral; a lovely vigor and freshness complement evolved tertiary aromas. No new oak to be detected whatsoever. Especially served in proper glasses, I assert that this wine would entirely delight your dinner guests – the ones who prefer sophisticated, though open and sexy pinot noir.

Domaine Michel Gaunoux Beaune 1999

$53.50 per bottle
No order minimum or sales tax for out-of-state shipments (otherwise New York tax applies)

Slainte,
Mary
Thoreau Wine Society

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