The Humble Gourmand

Bonnie and Clyde. Sodom and Gemorrah. Hammer and Sickle. Pizza and Beer. They just roll off the tongue, especially the latter, that perennial late-night order of the college student too exhausted to make a bowl of ramen and mix a Red Bull-vodka. But pizza is certainly not relegated to the fraternity set, and beer has raised itself to a definite level of respectability. This month Brew brings you his choices for the beer-pizza love affair, from three different angles: late-night mischief, a quick afternoon slice ‘n’ pint, and a homemade grilled pizza with company.

Those who have visited the District of Columbia know the legend that is Jumbo Slice. Many also know the Baltimore fixture of National Bohemian beer, lovingly monikered “Natty Boh.” What better way to spend a Saturday night than to sample the two in what I think of as the “Adams Morgan Special?”

For the uninitiated, Jumbo Slice is exactly what it purports to be: a large (think ear-of-elephant size, or alternatively, Sunday New York Times) piece of pizza. Eaten in its entirety at 4am, it leads to quite the stomachache come Sunday. Shared with friends, though, and paired with the straw-colored, slightly-watery-but-oh-so-refreshing Natty Boh, it’s quite a treat. Let’s just put it this way: if you’re drinking Natty Boh, you’re going to need Jumbo Slice to soak it up, and if you’re about to eat Jumbo Slice, you need a Natty Boh or two to talk you into it.

Stepping up in the world, and a bit earlier in the day, I checked out the new pizza place in D.C.’s Columbia Heights neighborhood, New Haven-style Pete’s Apizza. Being from New Haven, Pete makes a wonderfully crunchy/chewy crust topped with fresh ingredients; in my case the “New Haven Special” came with white clams, garlic, and Parmesan. To match, Pete’s had Peroni’s Nastro Azzurro on tap, the Italian lager distributed worldwide by SABmiller. The Peroni was a perfect complement – served cold, the slightly sweet lager married with the saltiness of the Parmesan and clam while cutting the intensity of the garlic.

Finally, I invited a few friends over to grill a pizza and share a six-pack of Wild Goose Amber Ale. I had spent far too much money at the farmers’ market that day, so I was featuring roasted tomato and basil sauce, lamb sausage, pattypan squash, and fresh goat cheese. To go with this celebration of the local, I had to pick an area brewery: Wild Goose, located in Frederick, Maryland, and makers of traditional English-style ales. I picked the Amber Ale, a low-alcohol, full-flavored malty beer that complemented but didn’t overpower the subtleties of the basil, goat cheese, and sausage.

After a weekend of sampling, I can make a couple of generalizations when picking beer for pizza: Choose lighter brews, as complex or spicy flavors can get lost — or overwhelm — the flavors in pizza. Serve it cold, as the saltiness of pizza wants a good, refreshing quencher. And finally, if you’re going to be feasting at 4am, please, have some Tums before bed.

1. Connie

   September 5 8:10 a.m. 1

   Grilled pizza and beer. Why didn't I think of that? Thanks for the inspiration and the resulting lovely, delicious and easy summer dinner!

2. Sam

   September 9 9:04 a.m. 2

   I'm glad you enjoyed yourself! What were your toppings, beer of choice?

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