Champagne For All -- Just Don't Call It Champagne
There was a great story in The New York Times over the weekend about the sometimes-wacky lengths France (and the EU) will go to to protect the “identity and integrity” of Champagne:
“In 1998, Switzerland reached an accord with the European Union that allowed its former national airline, Swissair, to make stopovers in European Union cities. In return, Switzerland, which is not a member of the union, agreed to forbid the people of Champagne, population 710, to use the town’s name on their products.”
When these agreements are shelved, products hijacking the designation are slapped with fines or warnings. Producers typically pull the “Champagne” label — to the detriment of sales. The producers get mad. Then, they get even:
“Recently, the local people have organized demonstrations to draw attention to their plight. Earlier this month, they used a forklift to rip up a road sign bearing the name Champagne at the village entrance, to which they affixed a French flag and a bottle of French Champagne.
“Swiss-style, they carefully replanted the sign after the demonstration.”
The HG’s Lauren just so happens to be in Champagne right now, and will be back with us next month with a full, firsthand report.
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The Humble Gourmand is a monthly online publication edited by Alison L. McConnell, a Washington, D.C.-based journalist and writer. It is designed to offer straightforward lessons and advice to aspiring cooks, oenophiles, and all other eaters and drinkers.
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